Radha Joshi

Dhruv Kapoor’s Spring Collection: From Archetypes to Evolution

Backstage at Dhruv Kapoor’s spring show, the starting point was clear and deliberate. Five all-white cotton garments — a kurta shirt-tunic, a bandhgala jacket, a pair of briefs, a petticoat, and a squared-neckline tank top — hung beside the designer’s mood board. Each piece felt familiar, rooted in archetypal Indian wardrobes, yet pristine enough to inspire new possibilities. Kapoor used these staples as the foundation for a collection that balanced homage with evolution, channeling his signature mix of millennial cool and refined sophistication. A Refined Cool Kapoor’s spring runway offered 40 looks that played with Indian classics, elevating them through embroidery, tailoring, and modern silhouettes. Petticoats became draped full skirts embroidered with florals, while tank top-inspired mini dresses dazzled with beadwork. Ankle-length pencil skirts paired with oversized shirts created a relaxed femininity, while fluid tailoring was accented with rhinestone chain belts for just the right amount of drama. Menswear followed the same ethos. A tailored brown pant and striped shirt — complete with a draped collar referencing the traditional dupatta — reflected the ease of modern dressing without losing cultural resonance. Experimentation with Prints The show wasn’t without its contrasts. Kapoor introduced clashing juxtapositions — floral embroidery layered over vichy checks, and oversized block print-style motifs on denim. These moments, while disruptive to the collection’s overall cohesiveness, echoed Kapoor’s streetwear-inflected roots, the designs that helped him break into Milan seasons ago and continue to drive commercial demand. Kapoor’s Evolution While these streetwear-inspired pieces remain his sales backbone, Kapoor is clearly pushing toward more elevated, polished territory. He acknowledges this shift directly: “We started a new vertical, which is Kapoor 2.0 — for all the younger, hyped elements that we still have.” This dual approach allows him to retain the energy of his youth-focused audience while building credibility in the global luxury space. The Takeaway Dhruv Kapoor’s spring collection stands as a study in balance — between Indian archetypes and global fashion codes, between refined tailoring and streetwear edge, between commercial needs and creative ambition. It signals a designer unafraid to grow beyond his comfort zone while still carrying the DNA that first brought him recognition. The collection may have leaned into contrasts, but at its core, it marked Kapoor’s embrace of a more sophisticated evolution — a Kapoor 2.0 moment for both the brand and the designer himself.

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Myer Posts FY25 Loss Amid Apparel Brands Impairment, Eyes Long-Term Growth

Australian department store chain Myer has reported a statutory net loss after tax of A$211.2m (US$140m) for fiscal 2025, largely due to a one-off impairment tied to its acquisition of Apparel Brands. The result was primarily driven by a A$213.3m non-cash impairment charge for Apparel Brands’ goodwill, coupled with A$34.7m in merger and restructuring costs. Stripping out these exceptional items, Myer’s underlying performance showed a net profit after tax of A$36.8m, though this was down from A$52.6m in FY24. Sales and Margins Hold Steady Despite a tough retail climate in Australia and New Zealand, Myer delivered modest sales growth. On a pro forma basis, including the first sales contribution from Apparel Brands, total sales rose 0.5%. The company’s operating gross profit reached A$1.4bn, helped by six months of Apparel Brands contributions, while the gross margin improved to 38.3%. However, earnings before interest and tax (EBIT) fell 13.8% to A$140.3m, reflecting the weight of restructuring costs and operational challenges. Operational Setbacks A key drag on performance came from Myer’s Melbourne distribution centre, which faced significant disruptions and cost the business an estimated A$16m. Executive chair Olivia Wirth acknowledged the challenges but stressed that the company has taken swift corrective action. “We took decisive action to address operational challenges, including completing a comprehensive review of our National Distribution Centre. We now have temporary measures in place to manage our next peak periods through Black Friday, Christmas and Boxing Day, and have developed a long-term solution. When fully operating, the NDC will underpin our omni-channel network strategy and deliver substantial cost and efficiency benefits.” Transition Year and Outlook Wirth described FY25 as a “transition year” for the group, noting that the company is laying the foundation for sustainable growth. “Despite challenging macroeconomic conditions and tough retail markets in Australia and New Zealand, we achieved positive sales growth in our first period as a combined group.” Looking ahead, early signs for FY26 are positive: in the first seven weeks, total sales rose 3.1% year-on-year. However, the company warned that rising operating costs will continue to pressure margins in the near term. The Bigger Picture While FY25 headlines are dominated by impairments and restructuring charges, Myer is positioning itself for a stronger future. The integration of Apparel Brands, improvements to distribution, and focus on omni-channel retailing signal a longer-term strategy. Investors and customers alike will be watching closely to see if Myer’s reset delivers the growth and efficiencies it is promising as FY26 unfolds.

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